Initial sampling.

For me the most significant element of sampling was to create varied textures and weights of fabrics. I want to create a collection for Menswear Autumn/ Winter as when I carry out research I am always drawn to the chunky more textured knitted garments. Initially I experimented with thicker yarns which created a dense heavy texture, but I found this hid the techniques and they got lost in the black dense yarn, so I moved away from the weightier yarns opting for a more subtle texture. I have been researching different designers such as Missoni and Craig Green as they have subtle textures and are more based towards an Autumn/ Winter. 



Craig Green A/W 15

Having analysed the different weights of yarns I then went on to research as many different textures as I could find. I inlayed wires and metals which enabled me to move the piece and distort the knit, however I wanted my samples to be more wearable as menswear pieces, but the wire made the piece too stiff and uncomfortable, so I decided not to use the wire.

 

This stiff structure is something I want to achieve, so instead I used strong cottons for larger areas, creating a boxy look, which is the sort of feel I want my collection to have. I continued my yarn research by sampling with yarns such as Latex covered yarn, felting yarn, various cottons and chenille. These yarns together created texture within each piece.

The techniques I have started to develop are inlay, ripple, pockets and rib. The ripple is a strong technique for texture, and mixed with a mock rib creates a ladder on the front of the ripple, which I find interesting, and by inlaying various yarns in the ripple it will show through adding a hidden texture relating back to my concept ‘Hidden and Coded’. 

 

As I am looking to contrast different textures, I have started putting two techniques next to each other, and seeing how this manipulates the structure of the knit. 

I think this piece is a strong piece, which could be developed into garment ideas. The rib and pocket structures side by side distort and move the knitting, as the rib brings in the sides and makes it longer, and the pocket does the opposite, pulling out the width making it shorter. I think this difference works well and adds detail. If I stuffed some of the pockets, this would add more texture, and create an illusion of thing being hidden within my sample.  

The ripple, rib and mock rib create a similar structure to my drawings of the circuit boards which links in well together and has a strong connection with my concept. I am going to start bringing in lace holes to add subtle detailing which also links to ‘Coded’ as things are normally hidden and indiscrete.

I wanted to seek out different styles of knit for my collection so I have started to explore the single bed knitting which gives me a lighter weight of fabric and can be easily manipulated. The techniques I have developed add textures creating bumps within my knitting. I found similar techniques within the Yarn Fair ‘Pitti’ in Florence which suggests this technique is used widely in industry; however I want to push the boundaries of the technique. 

I think this piece works well and has a strong area of focus allowing the lesser details, such as the lace holes, to merge in and only be noticed by the owner or person wearing the sample.

As I developed my samples more I found that black was too dense and stopped the techniques being shown to their full potential. I have decided to bring in a teal colour as some of my photographs have a bluish tinge to them. This teal should lift the piece and allow the techniques to show through. I have also decided to add in navy blue as I feel this could create a subtle contrast within the pieces.